Archive for the Fish Tanks category

Good Choices for Your First Saltwater Tank

Getting your first saltwater tank can be such an exciting event. You will finally be able to sit and enjoy the soothing beauty of your aquarium. However, it can also be frustrating and a bit overwhelming. What equipment do you need? Which fish are best for beginners? Here are some tips to help you start off right.

The first thing you should consider is the actual tank. An acrylic tank is a better insulator than a glass tank and is more stable in terms of temperature. Acrylic tanks are flexible, less prone to leakage and strong, which means they don’t break as easily as glass aquariums. Acrylic is also lighter and easier to drill into, which is important for installing certain filters. If your budget allows it, an acrylic tank would be a good idea.

However, for your first saltwater tank, a glass tank will do just fine, since you will be buying fish that are fairly hardy and easy to take care of. Since this is your first saltwater tank, you should consider purchasing an aquarium kit or package, as it comes with all the necessary equipment you’ll need to maintain your tank.

These aquarium kits usually include filters, heaters, test kits and manuals that will make it easier for you to set up your first saltwater tank. Some aquarium kits are so complete that they come with everything but your fish and water for the tank. These kits include fluorescent fixtures, power filters, plants, fish food, water conditioner and more. They come in sizes that range from about 30 gallons to 50 gallons.

For an extremely low maintenance tank, look for a kit that doesn’t require external plumbing for filtration. On these kits, the filter is attached to the back of the aquarium, making them very easy to maintain.

For your first saltwater tank, you may be tempted to buy the biggest, most colorful fish you can find. However, you really should have some experience with a saltwater fish tank before you spend hundreds of dollars on fish. Budget friendly, hardy fish are the best way to start.

The common clownfish was popular even before the cartoon movie made this hardy fish into a household name. While this fish is fairly easy to care for, it can be a bit aggressive, so you won’t want more than 3 of them in your aquarium. Your fish will be happiest if there are a few of their favorite anemones in the tank, as well.

A damselfish is also a good choice for your aquarium. Because damselfish are so aggressive to other damselfish, it is best to only have one of these colorful little guys in your tank.

Tangs are another popular choice for a first saltwater tank. However, you should be sure you have algae growing on your tank or you will need to provide a suitable alternative. The powder blue tang is the hardiest fish in the species. Since tangs are a bit aggressive, you shouldn’t add more than one to your tank.

Finally, you may want to consider adding some other living things, such as a cleaner shrimp or an anemone crab to the tank. Small hermit crabs are also easy to keep and very amusing to watch.

Aquarium Equipment, Size and Quantity Recommendations

By Allen Jesson

Choose the nearest length to the rectangular aquarium you are going to set up, and this guide will help you choose the size and quantity of all you need. Special shapes can be worked out from the guides after the rectangular aquariums.

Aquarium Length 45cm (18in)
Water Volume approx 49 litres (11galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 5kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 50watt (Tronic)
Filter Internal 200 litres per hour = (Fluval One)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 15in/14watt.
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 60cm (24in)
Water Volume approx 66 litres (15galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 10kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 100watt (Tronic)
Filter 400 litres per hour = (Internal Fluval 2 or External 105)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 18in/15watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 76cm (30in)
Water Volume approx 85 litres (19galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 15kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 150watt (Tronic)
Filter 400 litres per hour = (Internal Fluval 2 or External 105)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 24in/20watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 90cm (36in)
Water Volume approx 105 litres (23galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 20kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 200watt (Tronic)
Filter 700 litres per hour = (Internal Fluval 3 or External 205)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 30in/25watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 105cm (42in)
Water Volume approx 120 litres (27galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 25kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 250watt (Tronic)
Filter 700 litres per hour = (Internal Fluval 3 or External 305)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 36in/30watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 120cm (48in)
Water Volume approx 144 litres (32galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 30kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 300watt (Tronic)
Filter 1000 litres per hour = (Internal Fluval 4 or External 405)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 42in/40watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 150cm (60in)
Water Volume approx 172 litres (39galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 35kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 2x200watt (Tronic)
Filter 1400 litres per hour = (Internal 2 x Fluval 3 or External 405)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 48in/40watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 180cm (72in)
Water Volume approx 212 litres (48galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 40kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 2x300watt (Tronic)
Filter 2000 litres per hour = (Internal 2 x Fluval 4 or External FX5)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 60in/58watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner.
Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

For other shapes
Gravel/Coral Sand = 5kg per square foot
Heater = 50watts for every 25 litres (6 galls)
Filtration = Aquarium water turnover 4 – 8 times per hour

Link details: TITLE: Aquariums | Fish Tanks URL:

DESCRIPTION: Seapets is one of the UK’s leading aquarists and stocks a large range of aquariums and fish tanks.

Article Source:

A Goldfish Bowl is Not a Good Home

A Goldfish Bowl is Not a Good Home

By Ong Hui Woo

Goldfish bowls are cute, and they fit the deco of your room easily, but they are not ideal for keeping goldfishes. If you intend to keep goldfish for long, a tank would be more suitable, plus your goldfishes would be happier too. A tank would be the best home for your goldfish, it would give you more space for a filter, decorations and plants.

Goldfish are often mistreated in the belief that they are sturdy and will survive in all conditions. This belief has led to the death of many fish and disappointment for many owners. The fact to begin with is: GOLDFISH ARE DIRTY!

They can’t stop eating and will regurgitate a lot of food. They also dredge up the bottom in search of food and make the water murky and dirty. This reduces the oxygen content of the water and increases the toxin levels, harming the fish and sometimes killing them.

With goldfish, you need to have a very efficient water filtration system and will have to change at least 1/4th of the water every week! You also need to be careful that you don’t overcrowd the tank as goldfish need a lot of oxygen to attain sexual maturity and growth. A clear sign of oxygen deprivation is your goldfish hitting the surface gasping for breath.

So a few things to consider when planning a home for your goldfish:

1. Space: Decide where you will place the tank even before you bring in one! The surface should be smooth and flat and should accommodate the entire tank. There should be an electrical connection nearby and the tank should not be in the way. Bumping against the tank will scare the fish and it might even be dangerous if you have a small child whizzing around on a tricycle.

2. Water quality: The water in the tank should be absolutely clean and well oxygenated. Choose a good filter and air pump too. The oxygen in the tank will not only help the fish but also the beneficial bacteria that are required in the tank.

3. Plants in the tank: You might have imagined a tank full of green aquarium plants and golden fishes but it is not a prudent idea. Goldfish uproot and eat aquarium plants. This causes a rise in ammonia levels that is dangerous for the goldfish. Consider planting artificial plants instead if you like the image so much. Once your aquarium is established you can introduce some live plants but you will have to consult a specialist for advice on which plants can be maintained in a goldfish aquarium.

4. Gravel: Gravel at the bottom of the tank helps with the oxygen levels in the tank. You should use at least a one-inch layer. Wash the gravel well before you lay it out.

5. Decorations: Goldfish-like points of interest and hiding places in the aquarium. You can go ahead and have fun selecting aquarium decorations for this tank. Ensure that the pieces you select are smooth with no sharp or jutting edges.

Ong Hui Woo

Article Source:

Aquarium Medications, Treatments, and How They Work

Aquarium Medications, Treatments, and How They Work

By Carl Strohmeyer

This article (which will continue to grow with information) is informational about different aquarium (and pond) treatments. I give the gram negative or gram positive applications where they apply. Many aquarium antibiotics and chemical treatments are explained.

When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other parasites), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital aquarium whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display aquarium. Sponge filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications. Also not that silicone in the aquarium will absorb malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate.

TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

USE: Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris. DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.


USE: Treatment of bacterial infections, both gram-positive and gram-negative infections such as fin and tail rot (split, ragged and deteriorating fin and/or tail), Popeye (protruding eyes, may be cloudy or hazy), gill disease (swollen, discolored gills, gasping for air and a decrease in activity) and secondary infections. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). Tetracycline Hydrochloride mode of action is as a protein synthesis inhibitor via an aminoacyl-tRNA binding mechanism to the 30S subunit. Mode of resistance is the loss of cell wall permeability. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons of water. Every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. This product will not work in water with a ph above 7.5- NOT FOR MARINE USE!


USE: Resistant strains of Ich (especially on scale less fish). Protozoan, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Also good for resistant strains of Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole. DOSAGE : 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Once a day for 4-5 days. Do a 25% water change before each treatment.

OXYTETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE: USE: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia and mouth fungus. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. This antibiotic is best used mixed in with food, especially if your ph is above 8.0..


USE: Bactericidal for many gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of Aeromonas, Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi. Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. NEOMYCIN SULFATE: USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Red spots or streaks on body or fins of fish.) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums. DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.


USE: Hole in the head disease (hexamita), chilodonella, salt water ich, bloat.

DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.


USE: It is used to treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris). Kanamycin sulfate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.

DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 48 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.


USE: Fin and tail rot, kidney disease, pop eye. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. Black Molly disease. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

ISONIAZID 300 mg: USE: Treatment for tuberculosis in susceptible fish such as Discus. Can be combined with kanamycin. DOSAGE: 1 tablet per 20 gallons, every other day for 14- 30 days

METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :

USE: Fungus on eggs, Ich, fungus and some bacteria. Effective in gill disease. Transports oxygen. Some protozoa, sliminess of the skin and oodinium. Great for use as a 30 minute dip at double dose. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium. ACRIFLAVIN 3.84% solution: USE: For treatment of bacterial infections such as mouth fungus, salt water Ich, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia, skin parasites, oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3.84% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with copper sulfate and malachite green.


USE: For treatment and control of various external parasites of freshwater and marine fishes. When used as directed the medication will control or prevent the following common protozoan parasites: Ichthyophthinus (freshwater Ich), Costra, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon (marine Ich), Epistylis, Oodinium and Trichodina. Malachite Green is also effective against common external fungal infections of fishes and eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums. Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph

FORMALIN (3% formaldehyde):

USE: For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine aquarium fishes. Formalin will control or help prevent diseases of fishes caused by the following disease organisms: Ichthyophthirius (freshwater “ich”), Costia, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon (marine “ich”), Epistylis, Oodinium, Amyloodinium, and Trichodina. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

COPPER SULFATE: USE: For treatment freshwater and marine ich, Oodinium, external parasites, fungus and even algae. Very effective when used properly and carefully. DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

By Carl Strohmeyer

Article Source:

Aquariums – The Different Kinds

Aquariums – The Different Kinds

By Michael Russell

There are many different types of aquariums. There is pretty much one for each level of enthusiast and not all aquariums are for fish. There are aquatic plant aquariums as well and they are very beautiful.

One of the simplest of aquariums is a fish bowl. A fish bowl can even be part of a table arrangement. When one chooses a fish bowl it should be a big one. At least a gallon. You’ll also need a small net and two 1 gallon bottles of drinking water that is not distilled or de-ionized, as tap water isn’t safe for your fish. Even if water is treated with water conditioners it still wouldn’t be safe. You will also need some floating fish food. You will need to fill your fish bowl 2′ form the top of the bowl. Then you will need to cover your bowl with a clean plastic cover. Sometimes a clean lid from a coffee can will do. You don’t want your fish to jump out or another pet jumping in! You will need to replace about 20% of the water twice weekly and you can make your own bottled water by using the following method. Fill a bottle with tap water and leave about 2″ of empty space at the top of the bottle. Add about five drops of water conditioner and then replace the cap tightly. You will need to let the bottle of water sit for at least three days before you use it for your fish.

There are also cool water aquariums. These aquariums sit at room temperature and do not require a heater. You need an aquarium and a cover. You should get an aquarium stand as well. You will need a five inch fish net, water conditioner and some food to feed your fish. . Make sure you read all the instructions from your aquarium and water conditioner. Make sure your aquarium is running for at least three days before you add any fish. Only add one fish at a time and wait for at least three weeks between fish. There is a maximum of one 1 foot fish per gallon. Don’t overcrowd your fish.

A Warm Water Aquarium will require more skill to maintain than a cool water aquarium. You’ll need an aquarium, an aquarium cover, an stand and a power filter with a BIO-Wheel. You’ll also need a 5-inch fish net and a bottle of water conditioner as well as fish food, such as floating flake food and freeze dried blood worms.

One other type of aquarium is the betta fish vase. This has become increasingly popular. Often times buyers of a Betta Fish Vase have been told that the Betta can live by eating the lily roots, this is a mistake. The Betta will eat the roots, but only out of desperation and it will not be a healthy fish.

The Betta should be fed floating food that is labeled for Betta Fish and freeze dried blood worms, which are actually mosquito larvae. Betta Fish usually do much better in a large fish bowl than in a vase. So if you happen to receive one, your fish may be better off if moved to a bowl. Please think twice before offering one as a gift.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Aquariums

Article Source:

Which Fish Tank Heater is Best?

Which Fish Tank Heater is Best?

By Keith Londrie

Buying a new fish tank heater can sometimes be perplexing due to all of the options that are available. There are a couple of places that you can go for help when looking to purchase a fish tank heater. It is essential that if you do not know what anything about fish tank heaters that you do a lot of research or seek the advice of an experienced professional. Friends or neighbors experienced with fish tanks can prove to be valuable resources.

These resources can be found in a number of places, and most of them are free of cost. A fish tank heater is very important to the overall health of your fish, so you want to make sure that you get the set up that is appropriate for your tank. Your fish need a certain temperature in order to thrive and the correct fish tank heater will make that happen for you.

The first place you may want to go to for help is your local pet store. They usually have someone who can help you pick out a fish tank heater. Be sure to take the model information of your aquarium, so they can help you to pick out the right heater. Most of the time, you will get the fish tank heater with your tank, but sometimes this is not true. Of course it is easier to buy a heater at the same time as buying the tank. This way you can have everything you need in order to choose the fish tank heater that is right for you. This will not be an issue for all tanks, as some come equipped with their own heaters that are sized for the particular tank you are purchasing.

If you do not have a local pet store that you can go to for advice, be sure to check the internet. If you type “fish tank heater” into your favorite search engine *mine is Google), you will have enough information to keep you busy for at least a couple of hours. Search some of the sites and print out the important information. Keep any information that may be useful when choosing which fish tank heater to buy.

If you are looking to buy a fish tank heater, remember to get advice from a professional. Both pet stores and the Internet are a great place to start. You can even search Ebay and other auction sites on the internet.

Keith Londrie II is a well known author. For more information on Fish Aquariums, please visit for a wealth of information. You may also want to visit keith’s own web site at

Article Source:

Starting a Freshwater Aquarium

Starting a Freshwater Aquarium

By D Green

So you have decided to start an aquarium fish hobby, but now you need to know how to set up all that equipment. Does it matter what order things get done? Yes it does, and it matter how it is done too. If you get your new aquarium off to a proper start, you will have a successful, relaxing hobby. If you start off on the wrong foot, you will run into problems for a while down the road, wasted money, dying fish, smelly water… you may even give up! It is very important to follow proper steps, here are some guidelines that you should follow:

Step 1: Make sure the aquarium stand is level. This is very important for even weight distribution so that your aquarium does not crack.

Step 2: Clean out your new aquarium with cool clear water and a cloth. Do not use any soaps or cleaners. Make sure to use a commercial aquarium cleaner product if you are cleaning out a used fish tank.

Step 3: Attach the background to the aquarium with clear packing tape.

Step 4: Rinse the gravel or sand with cool water. Hot water can cause the epoxy on colored gravel to peel off.

Step 5: If you are using an air pump with an air stone, run the airline and connect them together.

Step 6: Add the gravel or sand. One pound of gravel per gallon of water is all you need.

Step 7: Fill your aquarium up ¾ with water.

Step 8: Install your filter system.

Step 9: Put the heater in place and let it sit in the water in the tank for at least ½ an hour before plugging it in. This prevents the glass cracking due to thermal differences.

Step 10: Decorate the aquarium.

Step 11: Fill the aquarium up the rest of the way, up to the black trim to hide the water level.

Step 12: Add water conditioner and other additives.

After you are finished setting up the aquarium let it run for 24 hours before you add fish. As long as the aquarium equipment works properly and the temperature is stable and all of the, you are ready to add some fish.

By following the professional advice from, your hobby will get off to a good start and you will learn how to properly take care of your fish and have a beautiful, gleaming fish tank that is sure to be the centerpiece of any room. Be sure to consult for free professional advice and useful information for all your freshwater and saltwater aquarium needs.

D Green is a professional aquarium hobbyist with + 15 years experience. For more advice and aquarium maintenance tips, go to

Article Source:

Aquarium Supplies Part 1 — My First Experience With Bettas

Aquarium Supplies Part 1 — My First Experience With Bettas

By Jonathan Wangsa

Keeping fish as pets takes more than just feeding them and changing the water every once in a while. Sadly, many people aren’t aware of that and they just buy aquarium fish because they’re attractive. After a short while the fish start to get sick and die one after the other, and the newbie would lose interest in the hobby and give it up all together.

Basic knowledge of fish keeping, together with the right aquarium supplies, is crucial to the livelihood and longevity of your fish. It’s important to maintain the optimum living conditions for your fish and other living things you may have in your aquarium if you are to enjoy them for a long time.

To illustrate this, I shall share with you my own experiences when I got started with this hobby for the very first time as a child. The first experience was with bettas and the second with goldfish; two different kinds of fish with different requirements.

My first pet fish were a pair of bettas (a male and a female) which my mom bought me because she knew that I liked fish and felt sorry for me because a toy fish was all I had.

We put the bettas in a small plastic jar with a floating live plant. The male was aggressive. He continuously chased after the female and attacked her until she was full of bruises. One night, running out of place to hide, the female desperately jumped out of the water onto the floor. Fortunately I was nearby and was able to save her.

My mom then suggested that we separate the fish. So we put the female in a different jar. However, I felt that the female was lonely. So one day I asked my mom if I could buy another fish. There was a beautiful green male betta that I decided to buy.

At that time I didn’t know that bettas were fighting fish and that the males would fight with each other. So at first I decided to put the new male in the same container as the first male. I knew the first male was aggressive and I just wondered how he would react toward another male.

To my amazement the two males fought with each other and there was no sign that they would stop. After a while I got worried. I didn’t want any of them to die so I finally separated them and put the new male together with the female, and to my pleasant surprise they got along pretty well.

However, that little jar was kind of small for a pair of fish although they got along. So, we decided to move the fish to a much larger plastic container. Later I added a couple more females so that it became sort of a betta community tank.

Being fascinated by the beauty of the male bettas, I bought a couple more and put each in individual jars. I fed them dried food and occasionally bread. However, I fed them too much. The water would become cloudy fast from fish waste and uneaten food. So, I completely changed the water every other day. I would fill up the jar with new water right from the tap.

As you might guess, the fish didn’t last very long. After only a few months they started to get sick and eventually one after the other died.

Dirty water, untreated new water, fluctuating water temperatures, and trauma from being moved frequently during water changes were some of the factors that contributed to the fish’s low resistance to diseases.

Although it’s acceptable to keep bettas in relatively small containers without aeration, it would be much better to put them in a tank of at least 2 gallons, and you would still need to observe certain basic things such as not feeding them too much and setting aside new water to equilibrate the temperature and remove chorine prior to water changes.

I was only about 10 years old at the time and didn’t know anything about fish keeping. Neither did my mom. Also, back then there were very few books about aquarium fish and the aquarium supplies were not as sophisticated as they are today.

Today, there are plenty of good books and magazines as well as web sites about fish aquariums. So, if you’re serious about taking up this hobby, you should start by reading a few of them and gain the basic knowledge before you even buy your aquarium and fish.

In the next article you will learn what happened when I tried to keep some goldfish, also with very little knowledge. In the mean time I invite you to visit my web site (see below) to learn more about aquarium fish keeping.

About the author:

Jonathan Wangsa is the webmaster of All About Aquarium Supplies. There you can find resources and information about aquarium supplies and other aquarium related topics. Whether you’re an expert or a newbie, you can also share your own experiences.

Get a Free Special Report when you sign up for a Free Monthly Newsletter.

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 — My First Experience With Goldfish

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 — My First Experience With Goldfish

By Jonathan Wangsa

If you are seriously considering keeping fish as pets or are just starting out, I would like to stress again the importance of having some basic knowledge about aquariums and fish keeping in order to enjoy the hobby for a significant length of time and to avoid frustrations and disappointments.

In the first article I illustrated this by sharing my own childhood experience with bettas, and now I shall share my experience with goldfish.

While I still had my bettas I also wanted to keep some goldfish since I also found them attractive and interesting. My mom was reluctant to buy me some since I already had the bettas but she finally gave in and bought me a pair of “telescope” goldfish.

At the time I didn’t have a real aquarium yet so we put the goldfish in a large jar (about 1 gallon). One of our neighbors told us that goldfish wouldn’t tolerate chlorine and therefore, we should not use tap water. They happened to have a well and offered to let us use the water for my goldfish.

I soon noticed that the fish were constantly gasping for air at the surface. They also refused to eat. After a couple of days the water started to become cloudy, so I changed it totally. However, the fish still refused to eat and continued to gasp for air. Not long after that they became lethargic and eventually died.

My mom said probably “telescope” goldfish just weren’t hardy enough and not easy to keep. However, I had not given up on goldfish yet, so I asked if I could try to keep other kinds and hopefully would have better luck. My parents eventually consented but my dad suggested that I get a real aquarium instead of putting the fish in a jar. You can imagine how elated I was that finally I was going to have a real aquarium.

So we went out and bought a 10 gallon aquarium and a few goldfish at the same time. I believe we bought 4 fish: a couple of medium sized “comets” and a pair of “pearl scales.” We didn’t buy them at a store, though. It was more like a wholesale type of place where there were plenty of different sellers selling their aquariums and fish. Again, at the time neither my mom nor I knew much about fish keeping. So we didn’t buy any supplies for the aquarium. Just the tank and fish. That was it!

When we got home I filled up the aquarium with untreated tap water and immediately put the fish in. I was so excited to see the goldfish swim around in the tank, but that didn’t last long. In a few hours the fish were no longer lively. They sort of stayed at the bottom and didn’t move very much.

When my dad saw them he said they probably lacked oxygen and suggested that we go out and buy an air pump to aerate the tank. I had only seen aerated aquariums in places like public aquariums and fancy restaurants and thought that an air pump had to be very expensive, but my dad said it would be OK.

So my mom and I went to a fish store to look for an air pump. Besides the pump we also needed something to hook the plastic tube on to and hold it in place. We chose to get a frog ornament for that purpose (the air would come out of the frog’s mouth). All the stuff didn’t really cost too much.

As soon as we got home we hooked everything up and air started flowing into the aquarium. Like magic, within a couple of minutes the fish started to “wake up” and finally became lively again. My dad said, “I told you so!”

The air pump was about the only supply we bought for the aquarium. Having beautiful and lively goldfish in my very own aquarium was good enough for me. I loved them so much that I also fed them too much. I was happy to watch them eat. As you can imagine though, the water got dirty very quickly that I had to change it every day.

One day a friend of ours told us that we shouldn’t be changing the water daily since it wouldn’t be good for the fish. Also, in the mean time I had read somewhere that if you wanted to use tap water you should set it aside for a few days to get rid of the chlorine. Therefore, I set aside a bucket of water and changed 3/4 of the water about every 3 days.

I was able to enjoy the goldfish for a few months before one of them got sick and died and the others followed soon after. I was extremely sad and because of that my dad told me I couldn’t buy any more fish. So, after all my fish died my hobby came to a sad end. Well, at least for a while.

Again, there is a take-home lesson here: if you’re serious about having your own aquarium, there’s some basic knowledge you need to possess before you even buy the aquarium and fish. You don’t have to know everything there is to know about the hobby, but at least for the sake of the fish, you should understand a few things (such as how many fish you can have in a tank, how much to feed them, what kinds of aquarium supplies to have, and what kinds of maintenance you need to perform, just to name a few) that are crucial to their well being.

If you’re an expert you most likely picked up on the things I did wrong in the story I shared above. If you’re a beginner or just thinking about getting started with this hobby, I invite you to visit my web site (see below) to learn more.

About the author:

Jonathan Wangsa is the webmaster of All About Aquarium Supplies. There you can find resources and information about aquarium supplies and other aquarium related topics. Whether you’re an expert or a newbie, you can also share your own experiences.

Get a Free Special Report when you sign up for a Free Monthly Newsletter.

How To Care For Your Fishes Without Spending A Fortune

How To Care For Your Fishes Without Spending A Fortune

By Partha Mitra

Whether you have a big sized aquarium with lots of fishes or just a glass bowl on your table with a couple of Gold fishes, they give you great pleasure and tranquility to see them. Fishes are most soothing pets, but they can be real delicate too. However you can take a good care for your fishes by remembering some small tips. Whether you are out for a couple of days, your fishes will be there waiting for you when you come back. Here are some tips to keep your fishes healthy.

1) Cleaning your aquarium or tank

Your fish survives in the water of your tank or your aquarium. Not only they eat in it but also the water gradually accumulates the bio-waste from our fishes and gravel. So it makes a god sense to clean the aquarium and change the water once a week. Do not change the entire water immediately. Fishes are sensitive to water temperature and a sudden change may affect them. Collect your fishes in a tub or a plastic bag with some water of your tank or aquarium. Seal the plastic bag and put it safely. Then clean the aquarium and change the water. Put the plastic bag (with the fishes and water) inside the aquarium -without opening it. Let the temperature of the water inside the plastic bag change gradually to that of the new water in the aquarium. Your fishes will adapt to the new temperature. Then open the plastic bag and release the fishes inside the aquarium. After all a clean aquarium is always more pleasant to look at.

2) Cleaning your aquarium’s air pump

Dirt and gravel often coagulates the air pump making it function less efficiently. Often bio-waste accumulates in the air filter. Consider changing the air filter at least once a month or as mentioned in the air-pump manual

3) Feeding your fishes.

One big word: Do Not Overfeed your fishes. Most aquarium fishes die of overfeeding rather then underfeeding. Also leftover foods (usually your fishes will continue eating till they are in real trouble!) contaminate the water, and promote bacteria harmful to the fishes. Feed the fish small amounts, which they can consume in three to five minutes and feed them daily. And if you are going out for a couple of days in the weekend, do not try to feed them an extra quantity on Friday. Your fishes will do well on an empty stomach for a couple of days. Also it is always better not to ask your helpful neighbor not to feed your fish when you are away for the weekend. The chances are that your over-zealous neighbor will overfeed them (with a good intention, of course!). There is sufficient food in a balanced aquarium to keep fish healthy even though not fed for a day or more.

See my e-book on Tropical fishes at

Article Source:

Warning: include(/home/fishlvr/public_html/refer/refer.php): failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/petlvr/public_html/ on line 127

Warning: include(/home/fishlvr/public_html/refer/refer.php): failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /home/petlvr/public_html/ on line 127

Warning: include(): Failed opening '/home/fishlvr/public_html/refer/refer.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/opt/alt/php56/usr/share/pear:/opt/alt/php56/usr/share/php') in /home/petlvr/public_html/ on line 127